Yemen Holiday

Yemen is an alluring mix of ancient tradition, sprawling modernity and Arabian glamour.

A country of ever-changing facades, it exudes the sleepy calm of a village one minute and the brutish confidence of a big city the next.

Once known as 'Lucky Arabia', Yemen is found on the south-western tip of the Arabian peninsular. Sana, the sprawling capital - and home to one million Yemenis - was once an extremely important stop-off for ships on the trade route between Mecca and the port of Aden.

It gained independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1918 and finally became a republic in 1962, renaming itself the Yemen Arabian Republic.

Britain remained a protectorate in Aden in the south-west until its final withdrawal in 1967, creating the People's Republic of South Yemen.

Due to the ensuing skirmishes and one major fight in May 1994, tensions are still simmering. The Foreign Office has warned about the high threat of terrorism in the country and has highlighted recent kidnappings of foreign tourists. Visitors should check with their embassies before embarking on a trip.

However, this is not to say that Yemen does not deserve attention from travellers. More open-minded wanderers will enjoy the country's cosy coffee houses, breathtaking scenery and noisy souks.

Yemen is primarily Islamic and while the men dress in elaborate, brightly coloured cloths with silver daggers around their necks, the women wear traditional black hijabs. It is not advisable to photograph people, particularly the country's women, no matter how tempting it may be.

Its people are one of its most fascinating features and watching animated street conversations among groups of men chewing qat (a hallucinogenic leaf which gives a feeling of euphoria) gives you a real taster of Yemeni life - spicy and lively but staunchly traditional.

Yemenis are extremely hospitable people and much of their daily life is spent drinking tea and talking. It is not unknown for respectful travellers to be invited to the colourful homes of Yemenis to chew some qat or drink tea.

Coffee is also a source of fame for Yemen and stories claim that it is the home of the popular drink.

If you can drag yourself away from the coffee, souks and the fuggy spiciness of Yemen's numerous eating places, you will be drawn in by the country's fabulous scenery.

In and around Sana the buildings are particularly impressive. Many houses are over 400 years old and have architecture which has changed little in 1,000 years, despite increasingly rampant modernism.

Sana exists 2,300 metres above sea level and has received money from the United Nations (UN) for its preservation.

Must-see sites around Yemen include: Bilqis Palace which was built in 10th century BC and is a holiday brochure staple; the Beit al-Faqih market which has over 1,000 traders; and the Dar al-Hajar palace where weddings are traditionally held on Fridays.

Yemen is a stunning country where centuries old traditions are observed religiously and life in many parts is resistant to change. However, with persistent modernism, many traditional enclaves may be forced to yield to more contemporary ways.

Travellers who are respectful and interested in the Yemeni people as much as their country will enjoy a fascinating, enlightening journey through all this Arabian country has to offer.