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Europe - Germany - Ich bin ein Hamburger
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Holiday Guide(s) for Europe - Germany

Ich bin ein Hamburger

James Stone praises Germany's much-overlooked second city

Though it may seem strange to describe the second-biggest city in the whole of Germany and one of the busiest ports in the world as a hidden gem, when it comes to tourism, Hamburg continues to be tragically overlooked.

Travellers heading to Germany, for example, tend to opt for Berlin for the modern history and cutting edge culture or Cologne to sample the country's gothic splendour, simply flying over Hamburg on their way.

However, the city is a great place to visit, managing to be both truly international while also clinging onto its roots as an old-school German industrial port.

Despite having a rich history dating back to 800AD, taking in the Vikings, Lutheranism, the Hapsburg Empire and Napoleonic rule, for many Brits making the short trip, the city was truly put on the map thanks to its now-legendary association with The Beatles.

In 1960, the band kick-started their career with a 48-night residency at the Indra Club before going on to perform for 50 nights at the nearby Kaiserkeller, both located in the infamous Reeperbahn district and still established destinations on the city's tourist trail.

Though the band quickly went on to the Cavern Club and then to global fame, their legacy remains strong in Hamburg, with the streets surrounding these original venues a hive of activity at night, boasting hundreds of bars, clubs and restaurants to suit all tastes and pockets.

Rather than visitors being put off by the fact that the Reeperbahn is effectively the world's biggest red light district, the edginess of the district, in combination with more salubrious entertainment on offer, actually works to draw tourists in, with around four million people heading there each year to enjoy a night out with the locals.

Once summer comes round, the sleaze and glamour of the old warehouses loses its appeal as the cafes of the more laidback and bohemian Schanze district put out their tables onto the cobbled streets and ad-hoc barbecues and bars set up for business on the beaches along the River Elbe.

Perhaps the best way to get a feel for Hamburg, however, is to take a break from the beer and seafood and head onto the water.

Though there are a wealth of tourist boats offering their rather expensive services from the harbour, not only is a commuter bus-boat much cheaper, but also allows the opportunity to mingle with genuine Hamburgers and cruise past the giant, fully-automated docks and gain an appreciation of both the city's past and future.