Carthage and Tunis Holiday

Carthage, erstwhile home of Hannibal, is a name which cannot fail to stir the emotions of those who have studied the rise and fall of this once-dominant Mediterranean metropolis, or who have read Virgil's heart-rending depiction of the powerful love of its queen, Dido, for the Roman Aeneas. Today only the vestiges of a glorious, stirring past remain, gazing across the sea just as the tragic monarch did for her loved one – and these lie only 15 kilometres from the teeming, stately colonial city of Tunis.

What remains of the city, which was founded by the Phoenicians before seeing its original structures largely razed to the ground by the Romans after a series of attritional, bloody wars which spanned 118 years, can be navigated on foot or via the local TGM light railway line which bisects the area and its largely-scattered sites. Many of these are situated in the pleasant, fairly shady surrounds of one of the more affluent suburbs of Tunis – although Byrsa Hill, the dramatic focal point for any tour around Carthage is in places brutally exposed to the weather.

The top of Byrsa Hill provides an evocative panorama which impresses the geographical importance held by the ancient city, not to mention its grandeur. Some of the area's best-preserved ruins, along with telltale traces of scorched earth, lace the hill, which is a 15-minute stroll from what was once one of the Roman Empire's largest amphitheatres and a huge, if somewhat overgrown, set of cisterns which used to serve the ancient city. Also of note are the sprawling Antonine Baths – located by the waterfront and one of the more impressive sets of ruins to be seen – and the nearby Punic Ports.

Perhaps most chilling of all is the Tophet, situated only a quick stroll from the Punic Ports, which is a shaded temple site where the ancient Carthaginians are said to have carried out sacrifices of their nobles' children to appease certain deities. The gravestones and memorials are legion; as with much of the rest of Carthage, there is an atmosphere of almost chilling silence here, conducive to silent contemplation and reflection. "Delenda est Cartago" (Carthage is destroyed), the Roman senator Cato is reported to have proclaimed in many of his speeches – if the mood so takes you, his words can weigh heavily as you browse its various remains.

If you've had enough history, succour is around the corner – literally – in the classy, charming village of Sidi Bou Said. It's a lengthy stroll through Carthage to reach this quiet, fragrant blue and white settlement, but its cobbled streets, astounding views and renowned Café Des Nattes – vendor of a quite dazzling cup of minted green tea - provide the ideal place of relaxation before you head back. Stay around as the sky dims slightly in the early evening, as the lapping of the sea is accompanied by the joyful strains of the local musicians who are only too happy to put on a show in the village's main square.

The city of Tunis itself cannot go without mention, perhaps awaiting you as you wend your way back along the coast on the TGM. It is more than worth a few days of any visitor's time, with its blend of the French colonial and traditional Arab influences proving headily intoxicating.

At the far end of the city's main boulevard, the sprawling Avenue Habib Bourguiba, can be found the city's Medina, its old town and market area. This is a veritable tardis, a melange of sight, sound and sensuality which stays long in the blood – although a good map and a sharp eye on your belongings are always necessary. Bargain for antiques, Berber jewellery, pottery, leather, massage oils and anything else which takes your fancy – and zero in on one of the spectacular ancient mosques and temples, such as the renowned Ez Zitouna. The medina of Tunis is truly a living museum – and one of the finest in the world.

Tunis is a pleasant place in which to eat and stay – and decently-priced, well-appointed restaurants and hotels are rarely hard to find. Make sure you stay true to your own instincts and advice, and do not feel you have to oblige a pushy local who is advertising their establishment to you. While there are good hotel deals to be found on spec, it is sometimes an idea to have arrangements booked in advance in the city of Tunis – particularly if you are not an experienced traveller.

Whether you are seeking the mayhem of the metropolis, the buzz of the bazaar, the sonorousness of the sea or the headiness of history and tradition, Tunis and Carthage can provide with an invigorating combination of sights and activities on offer. Cato may have eventually been right about the ancient city of Carthage, but its spirit is effervescent.